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eMule is a peer-to-peer file sharing application for Microsoft Windows

Microsoft Windows is a family of operating systems by Microsoft. They can run on several types of platforms such as server , embedded devices and, most typically, on personal computers….
. Started in May 2002 as an alternative to eDonkey2000

eDonkey2000 was a peer-to-peer file sharing application developed by MetaMachine, using the Multisource File Transfer Protocol….
, eMule now connects to both the eDonkey network

The eDonkey network is a file sharing network used primarily to exchange music, films and software….
and the Kad network

The Kad Network is a peer-to-peer network which implements the Kademlia P2P overlay protocol. This network is supported by eMule, MLDonkey and aMule….
. The distinguishing features of eMule are the direct exchange of sources between client nodes, fast recovery of corrupted downloads, and the use of a credit system to reward frequent uploaders. Furthermore, eMule transmits data in zlib

name = zlib| logo = | screenshot =| caption =| developer =| latest_release_version = 1.2.3| latest_release_date = 2005-07-18…
-compressed form to save bandwidth.

eMule is coded in Microsoft Visual C++ using the Microsoft Foundation Classes. Since July 2002 eMule has been free software

Free software, as defined by the Free Software Foundation, is software which can be used, copied, studied, modified and redistributed without restriction….
, released under the GNU General Public License

The GNU General Public License is a widely used free software license, originally written by Richard Stallman for the GNU….
; its popularity has led to eMule’s codebase being used as the basis of a Linux

Linux is a Unix-like computer operating system. It is one of the most prominent examples of open source development and free software; unlike proprietary software operating systems such as Microsoft Windows or Mac OS X, its underlying source co…
-specific client, xMule

xMule the X11 Mule is a client for the EDonkey Network peer-to-peer file sharing network, intended to bring it to virtually all the major Unix platforms, with a particular emphasis on Linux….
, and a multiplatform client, aMule

In computing, aMule is a peer-to-peer file sharing Application software that works with the EDonkey network and the Kad Network, but offers more features than the standard EDonkey2000, including support for Kademlia….
, along with the release of many eMule mods (modifications of the original eMule) on the Internet.

History

The eMule project was started on May 13, 2002 by s (also known as Merkur) who was dissatisfied with the original eDonkey2000

eDonkey2000 was a peer-to-peer file sharing application developed by MetaMachine, using the Multisource File Transfer Protocol….
client. Over time more developers joined the effort. The source was first released at version 0.02 and published on SourceForge

SourceForge is a collaborative revision control. SourceForge is proprietary software and is sold by VA Software….
on July 6, 2002.

eMule was first released as a binary on August 4, 2002 at version 0.05a. The ‘Credit System’ was implemented for the first time on September 14, 2002 in version 0.19a. The eMule project website started up on December 8, 2003. Since its inception, eMule has been downloaded over 405 million times as of May 11, 2008 making it by far the most downloaded project on SourceForge

SourceForge is a collaborative revision control. SourceForge is proprietary software and is sold by VA Software….
.

Current versions (v0.40+) of eMule have added support for the Kad network

The Kad Network is a peer-to-peer network which implements the Kademlia P2P overlay protocol. This network is supported by eMule, MLDonkey and aMule….
. This network has an implementation of the Kademlia

Kademlia is a distributed hash table designed by Petar Maymounkov and David Mazires, for decentralized peer to peer computer networks….
protocol, which does not rely on central servers as the eDonkey network

The eDonkey network is a file sharing network used primarily to exchange music, films and software….
does, but is an implementation of a distributed hash table

Distributed hash tables are a class of decentralized Distributed computing that partition ownership of a set of keys among participating node, and can efficiently routing messages to the unique owner of any given key….
.

Also added in recent versions were the ability to search using unicode

Unicode is an industry standard designed to allow text and symbols from all of the writing systems of the world to be consistently represented and manipulated by computers….
, allowing for searches for files in non-Latin alphabets, and the ability to search servers for files with complete sources of unfinished files on the eDonkey network

The eDonkey network is a file sharing network used primarily to exchange music, films and software….
.

In new versions, a “Bad source list” was added. The application adds an IP address

An IP address is a unique number that devices use in order to identify and communicate with each other on a computer network utilizing the Internet Protocol standard ….
to this list after one unsuccessful connection. After adding an IP to the “Bad source list”, the application treats this IP as a “dead” IP. Unavailable IPs are banned for a time period from 15 to 45 minutes. Some users have complained that it leads to a loss of active sources and subsequently slows download speed.

Other recent additions include: the ability to run eMule from a user account with limited privileges (thus enhancing security), and intelligent corruption handling (so that a corrupted chunk does not need to be re-downloaded entirely).

The 0.46b version added the creation and management of “eMule collection” files, which contain a set of links to files intended to be downloaded as a set.

Recently, many ISPs are bandwidth throttling

Bandwidth throttling is a method of ensuring a bandwidth intensive device, such as a Server, will limit the number of requests it will respond to within a specified period of time….
default P2P ports resulting in slow performances. The 0.47b version adds protocol obfuscation; eMule will automatically select two ports at random in the startup wizard.

eMule is now considered a stable product, and new versions are not released as often as they used to be; five to six months is now a typical time interval between releases. The latest version is 0.49a which was released in May 2008.

Basic concepts

Each file that is shared using eMule is hashed

A hash function is a way of creating a small digital “fingerprint” from any kind of data. The function chops and mixes the data to create the fingerprint, often called a hash value….
using the MD4

MD4 is a message digest algorithm designed by Professor Ronald Rivest of Massachusetts Institute of Technology in 1990….
algorithm. The top-level MD4 hash, file size, filename, and several secondary search attributes such as bit rate and codec are stored on eD2k servers

The Lugdunum server is a Server that serves to bootstrap EDonkey network clients and find other peers and files….
and the serverless Kad network

The Kad Network is a peer-to-peer network which implements the Kademlia P2P overlay protocol. This network is supported by eMule, MLDonkey and aMule….
.

Users can search for filenames in the servers/kad and are presented with the filenames and the unique identifier consisting of the top-level MD4 hash for the file and the file’s size that can be added to their downloads. The client then asks the servers where the other clients are using that hash. The servers return a set of IP/ports that indicate the locations of the clients that share the file.

eMule then asks the peers for the file. eMule will then be queued until an upload slot becomes available.

When a complete chunk of 9500 kilobytes is downloaded and verified this data is also shared by the downloader, helping others to download the file as well.

It is also possible that a client knows other clients that are also sharing that same file. In that case a source exchange between the clients is made. This exchange of known peers is done directly between the peers.

Newer versions of eMule support AICH – Advanced Intelligent Corruption Handling. It is meant to make eMule’s corruption handling competitive with BitTorrent. SHA-1 hashes are computed for each 180kb sub-chunk and a whole SHA-1 hash tree

In cryptography, hash treesalso known as Merkle treesare an extension of the simpler concept hash list, which in turn is an extension of the old concept of hash functioning….
is formed. AICH is processed purely with peer-to-peer source exchanges. eMule requires 10 agreeing peers regarding the SHA-1 hash, so rare files generally do not benefit from AICH.

Low ID

Users who cannot be reached from the outside because they are firewalled

A personal firewall is software installed on an end-user’s PC which controls communications to and from the user’s PC, permitting or denying communications based on a security policy….
, behind a NAT

In computer networking, the process of network address translation involves re-writing the source and/or destination IP addresses of Internet Protocol packets as they pass through a router or firewall ….
device that has not been correctly port forwarded or their IP address ends with a zero (e.g. 123.45.67.0) get a “Low ID” from the servers. They are still able to upload and download but need the help of servers

The Lugdunum server is a Server that serves to bootstrap EDonkey network clients and find other peers and files….
or other kad

The Kad Network is a peer-to-peer network which implements the Kademlia P2P overlay protocol. This network is supported by eMule, MLDonkey and aMule….
clients to be reached by other clients. Since they cannot be notified that they are in front of an upload queue, they have to poll

In software engineering, busy waiting or spinning is a technique in which a process repeatedly checks to see if a condition is true, such as waiting for Computer keyboard input or waiting for a lock to become available….
peers if an upload slot is available. Since they cannot connect to any other Low ID clients, they see only 40%-60% of the clients that a High ID can see. Their IP

An IP address is a unique number that devices use in order to identify and communicate with each other on a computer network utilizing the Internet Protocol standard ….
/ports are not exchanged between other peers, limiting their possibilities for finding sources via eMule’s pure-P2P source exchange.

A Low ID client also consumes a lot more data more bandwidth on an eserver than a High ID client due to the lowidcallbacks. Also, a releaser or heavy uploader that uses a releaser mod such as MorphXT or Xtreme that is forced to operate on a Low ID (hotel room, job) also will find that he will have little control over his upload priorities (especially powershares) as the servers appear to limit their connection-forwarding for each client, thus turning his upload queue to a contention situation where the first to be able to get forwarding and finds an open slot gets it.

Credit system

Clients usually do not download from a source immediately after contact is made but must wait in the source’s upload queue until an upload slot becomes available. A credit system is used to promote uploading by moving those who upload to a client through that client’s queue more quickly. Each client maintains a record of how much data they received and sent from every client to which they’ve connected. Clients are identified using a secure hash

In cryptography, a cryptographic hash function is a hash function with certain additional security properties to make it suitable for use as a primitive in various information security applications, such as authentication and message integrity….
handshake. Clients can pass up to 10 times faster through a client’s queue by the credit system. Each client’s credits are stored on the computers of the servers he or she has connected to, rather than his or her own computer. This prevents tampering with one’s own credits.

The computation formula for the Official Credit System is composed of two ratios as follows:

Both ratios are then compared and the lower one is used as the modifier. A few conditions exist:

• If the Uploaded Total is less than 1 MB, then the modifier will remain at 1.
• If the client uploads data but doesn’t download any, the modifier will be fixed at 10.
• The modifier can only be between 1 and 10.

An exception to this rule applies only when a peer is assigned a “Friend Slot” after being added to the client’s Friends list. This automatically assigns a reserved upload slot for that peer so that he/she can begin downloading regardless of the Credit rating. Only one Friend Slot can be reserved so as to prevent any form of abuse such as upload discrimination.

eMule mods

As a popular open source program, eMule has many variants, usually called mods. Some mods started as forks from official eMule versions, and then continued to develop independently rather than modifying newer official versions. An example of this type of mod is eMule Plus

eMule Plus is an open source attempt to add a redesigned graphical user interface and other enhancements to the original eMule P2P client….
. Since eMule Plus forked off before the release of v0.30, the first official version to include Kad, eMule Plus does not support this feature. Other mods follow official eMule releases and make their own releases based on each new release of the official version. Since mods are required to be shared publicly by the GNU General Public License, useful features created by mod developers can be incorporated into an official version.

See also

• Comparison of eDonkey software
  Comparison of eDonkey software

  The following tables compare general and technical information for a number of available applications supporting the eDonkey network….
  

• Comparison of file sharing applications
  Comparison of file sharing applications

  Sorry, no overview for this topic
  

• eDonkey network
  EDonkey network

  The eDonkey network is a file sharing network used primarily to exchange music, films and software….
  

External links

• DisplayLink(“http://sourceforge.net/projects/emule”,”eMule on SourceForge”)eMule on SourceForge (SourceForge
  SourceForge

  SourceForge is a collaborative revision control. SourceForge is proprietary software and is sold by VA Software….
  ) Contains archives of current and past versions of eMule

• DisplayLink(“http://www.emule-project.net/”,”eMule project”)eMule project Official site
• DisplayLink(“http://www.cs.huji.ac.il/labs/danss/p2p/resources/emule.pdf”,”eMule Protocol Specification”)eMule Protocol Specification by Danny Bickson and Yoram Kulbak from Hebrew University of Jerusalem
  Hebrew University of Jerusalem

  The Hebrew University of Jerusalem is one of Israel’s oldest, largest, and most important institutes of higher learning and research….
  .

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http://www.statoids.com/ula.html

Other names of country: 

1. Danish: Laos
2. Dutch: Laos, Lao Democratische Volksrepubliek (formal)
3. English: Lao People’s Democratic Republic (formal), Lanxang (obsolete)
4. Finnish: Laos
5. French: Laos m, République f démocratique populaire Lao
6. German: Laos, Demokratische Volksrepublik f Laos n
7. Italian: Laos m
8. Lao: Saathiaranarath Prachhathipatay Prachhachhon Lao (formal)
9. Norwegian: Den demokratiske folkerepublikk Laos (formal) (Bokmål), Den demokratiske folkerepublikken Laos (formal) (Nynorsk), Laos
10. Portuguese: Laos m, República f Popular Democrática Lao (formal)
11. Spanish: Laos, República f Democrática Popular Lao (formal)
12. Swedish: Laos

Origin of name: 

ethnic name Lao, applied by Portuguese explorers in the plural

Primary subdivisions: 

Laos is divided into sixteen khoueng (provinces), one kampeng nakhon (municipality or prefecture), and one khetphiset (special region or zone).

Primary subdivisions: 

Laos is divided into sixteen khoueng (provinces), one kampeng nakhon (municipality or prefecture), and one khetphiset (special region or zone).

Shan

1997-04-17

Geography

The Shan States are situated in the northeastern part of Burma, bordering China, Laos, Thailand and the Karenni state (Kayah). Its surface area is 62.500 square miles and is approximately 2,000 feet above sea level. With the Salween River running from North to South, most of the Shan states are composed of broad valleys and pine and evergreen forests

People

Population

There are approximately 7 million people living within the Shan states, the majority of whom are ethnic Tai. Thirty-two states comprise the Shan States of Burma, the capital of which is Taunggyi.

Language

Shan belongs to the Tai languages and is the main language spoken in the Shan States, although English and Burmese are widely used and understood as well. It is a written language with its own alphabet, which is an adaptation of Mon script.

Culture and Religion

The main religion of the Shan people is Theravada Buddhism, although Hinduism, Islam and Animism flourish as well. The majority of Shan are ethnically Tai, but there is also Pa-o, Palaung, Wa of Mon Khmer stock, Kachin, Akha and Lalu of Tibeto-Burman stock as well. There are three major subdivisions of Shan, in terms of both dialect and of culture: Southern Burmese Shan, Northern Burmese Shan and Chinese Shan.

Economy

Most Shan are farmers (rice, vegetables, soybeans and fruit); some are miners (rubies and other precious stones) and tree cutters (teak). Old methods are used and little machinery is available. Before 1996 the Shan were responsible for up to 50% of the world’s opium production. After the surrender of their leader Khun Sa to the Burmese in February 1996, the selling and growth of illegal opium has all but stopped among the Shan, who now have an active drug eradication policy. The Shan States are also rich in mineral resources and have an abundant supply of timber, thus exhibiting the potential for a self-sufficient economy in the Shan States.

Environmental Problems

Similar to other oppressed groups in Burma, the Shan also face serious issues concerning deforestation and the construction of pipelines for extracting and sending natural gas and oil through their territories. The effects include environmental degradation; destruction of wildlife; tainted drinking water and constant threats of forced labor.

History

The history of the Shan people goes back to 650 BC, when they are said to have migrated from China to present day Burma and settled in the area known as the Shan States. By the end of the 13th Century, the Shan ruled all of Burma, then called the Ava Kingdom, and by the mid-14th century they had created an empire which stretched to the Yunan region of China in the north, the Tenasserim region of Burma in the south, the Assam region of India in the west and included parts of Laos and Thailand in the east.

At the end of the 16th century, the Shan were defeated by the Burmese and 50 years later by the Chinese, thus bringing an end to the Shan monarchy. Even so, the Shan had been recognised by both the Chinese and Burmese as a separate entity. In 1887, the Shan States became a British protectorate. In 1922, the Shan were granted a distinct status and the British rulers established the ‘Federated Shan States’.

The historic Panglong Agreement in 1947 between Burma and the Shan paved the way for the “Union of Burma Constitution” which followed their joint independence from the British in 1948.
In 1952 Burma invaded the Shan States under the pretext of fighting against Guomingang, Chinese nationalists fighting against the communist regime, incursion. Ten years later, in 1962, the Burmese military staged a coup and abolished the Union Constitution. Since then, the Shan have been waging a resistance movement against the Burmese military oppression, striving for fulfilment of their right to self-determination.

In January 1996, the resistance group Mong Tai Army (MTA) led by Khun Sa, surrendered to the Burmese military, the State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC). However, large numbers of ex-MTA troops refused to surrender and instead began to move north, along the Thai-Burma border, to join other Shan resistance groups who were under a ceasefire agreement with SLORC, at the time. Soon, an alliance of forces was created and in February 1996 Shan troops penetrated into the Central Shan State. The Burmese military responded by implementing a policy of relocation in the area in order to cut off civilian support to the resistance groups. The relocation is still in progress today.

The Shan Nationalities League for Democracy (SNLD) is the largest winning political party in the 1990 nation-wide election within the Shan States, representing the non-Burmese. SNLD, as well as National League for Democracy (NLD), participated in the “National Convention” (NC), formed by SLORC in 1993 in order to draft a new Union of Burma Constitution. Unlike NLD, SNLD has not been able to attract the attention of foreign powers and media, therefore the SNLD must be more moderate regarding their indictments of SLORC policies outside the NC, but inside the NC they remain firmly and vocally committed to realising the fulfilment of the rights guaranteed by the Panglong Agreement of 1947.
With the SNLD having no voice outside the “National Convention” and the Shan resistance being cut off from Thailand, a traditional gateway to international media and public awareness, the need for a voice outside Burma was tremendous. On November 16, 1996, the Shan Democratic Union (SDU) was founded by key members of the Chiangmai-based Shan State Organization and the Bangkok-based Tai Union. The SDU is an umbrella organization, now functioning as the Foreign Ministry of Shanland with the tacit approval of SNLD and the formal approval of the resistance groups.

During 1997, there had been regular reports of serious human rights violations in the Shan State. Numerous incidents of forced relocation, forced labour, illegal confiscation of goods and extra-judicial killings are reported. According to the Shan Human Rights Foundation reports, specific incidents of random shooting, murder and rape occurred in the villages of Namzarng and Murngpan, from June to August 1997.

Since the relocation began, in February 1996, an estimated 200,000 villagers have been forced at gunpoint to abandon their homes and move to relocation sites near main roads and towns. Between May and July 1997, 200 villages were forcibly relocated. No food, medicine or clothing has been provided by the SLORC at these sites, and, dispossessed of their ancestral land, the relocated Shan farmers have been forced to survive as wage labourers or beggars.

The result of the relocations and physical brutality has been a massive exodus of Shan refugees to Thailand. It is estimated that, thus far, at least 500.000 people have fled to Thailand. Once across the border, though, the Thai authorities refuse to grant them refugee status. The result is that refugee camps will not receive them, forcing them to work as illegal labourers, beggars and prostitutes, living at a subsistence level in work-sites together with their elderly, dependents, and young children.

In an appeal on 8 September 1997, the SDU urged the United Nations, as well as other international organizations and national governments to exert all possible influence upon the military regime of Burma to stop the implementation of “inhumane policies, which are tantamount to the ethnic cleansing of the Shan people.” In another appeal made to the UN General Assembly on 26 October 1997, SDU stated, on behalf of the Non-Burmese peoples, that: “Democracy in Burma is meaningless without the recognition of the equality and right to self-determination of the non-Burmese peoples and vice-versa.”

The Shan became a member of UNPO in June 1997, represented by the Shan States Organization (SSO), which is member of the SDU.

To date, the Shan people continue to be persecuted and oppressed by the Burmese military junta. Gross human rights violations, particularly forced labor, extrajudicial killings, and rape as a weapon of torture are just a few of the horrors faced by Shan. Many have fled to neighbouring Thailand to seek refuge, however, they are one of the few groups from Burma not recognized as refugees or given asylum status and therefore are given no aid or help of any kind. Other issues, such as the violent crack down on opium growth; cultural, religious and linguistic repression; and senseless killings and displacements continue to plague the Shan and desperately seek the attention of the international community.
Thirteen Shan activist groups operating both in and outside of Burma met in June 2005 and established an unprecedented agreement in order to unite all Shan people and work toward ending the discrimination and persecution suffered at the hands of the Burmese military.

They adopted three main resolutions: 1) to form a committee representing all Shans, 2) to unite with indigenous non-Shan groups in the Shan states, and 3) to resolve political issues by political means. The meeting has marked an incredible moment for both Shan and non-Shan peoples alike and will hopefully better help indigenous peoples in the Shan states and Burma as a whole to realize their hopes of a democratic and genuine union in the future.

Organizations

The Shan are represented at UNPO by the Shan States Organization (SSO), a member of the Shan Democratic Union (SDU).

Statistics

Population: 7 million
Language: Shan (Tai language group)
Religion: Theravada Buddhism

http://www.ourweb.info/01/maps/laos/index2.shtml

1. Phongsali
2. Luang Namtha
3. Bokeo
4. Oudomxai (UdomXai)
5. Luang Prabang
6. Huaphan
7. Xayabouri
8. Xieng Khouang
9. Vientiane province
10. Vientiane prefecture
11. Saysomboune
12. Borikhamsay
13. Khammouane
14. Savannakhet
15. Saravan
16. Sekong
17. Champasak
18. Attapeu

M = Mekong river

Phongsali

The northernmost province of Laos is the home to many minority ethnic hilltribe people, their cultures and villages amids rolling hills after hills of natural scenery. The province borders with China and Vietnam in the north, east and west. It is the most inaccesible place in Laos. Maybe because of this it still retains many of their unique cultures untouched by the damaging effects of tourism and other business and non-business operations.

It is estimated that there are 22 groups of ethnic minorities, among them Hmong, Iko , Phunoi, Kheu, Lolo, Hanyi, Yao, Thai Khao, Thai Lu, Phuan, Phai, Khamu, and Mien to name a few. The Ethnic Museum in Phongsali city center is a place where visitors can see traditional costumes and lifestyles of the locals.

The hilly region with many river streams is in cool weather all the year round. Phu Den Din National Biodiversity Conservation Area (NBCA) covers more than 1300 square km in the north-eastern part of the province along the Lao-Vietnamese border. This area is hilly with highest elevation of around 1934 meters; and is home to many threatened endangered wildlife.

Nowadays construction of roads and facilities have started eating into this largely forested region. In the future the travel to this beautiful place will be much easier than present. It is the responsibility of the tour operators, travel agents, tourists, local people, as well as policy makers to carefully create a sustainable limited tourism. Good education must also be made available to the local people.

Luang Namtha
Luang Namtha is the home of variety of ethnic minorities and textiles, which borders with Myanmar on the west across the Mekong river, and with China on the north. The mountainous, pleasently cool year round, and scenic province is a good place for eco-tourism as well as to get to know the locals. Many groups of people including Hmong, Yao, Iko, Thaidaeng, Tai Lu live in the province and beyond. Each group has their own style of dress and ways of living.

The conditions of the roads most of them are laid along the mountains are not so good. Many of them are passable only in the dry season between November to June. The Mekong on the border and other rivers offer alternative mode of transport in which you can travel slow-motion and interact with the local people. The rivers in the hilly regions (mostly in the north) have many rapids to pass though. Between Luang Namtha town and Houixai (capital town of Bokeo province) the journey on the Nam Tha river in a slow boat would take two days and a night stop at a village, either upstream or downstream.

The highway no. 3 connecting Houixai (across Thailand’s Chiang Khong over Mekong river) and Luang Namtha can be used in the dry season, and is suitable for rough trucks in the wet season. Luang Namtha to Muangxai (Udomxai province) road (highway 1) is in similar conditions.

Nam Ha NBCA is located in the north where the head waters of Nam Tha river are, close to the China border. The area consists of rugged hills, fast flowing streams and healthy forest. Thus it is believed that there could be at least some sizeable numbers of wildlife.

The border crossing with China is at Botene check point. On the China side is Mihan of Yunnan province.

Bokeo
Located at the three border intersection of Laos, Thailand and Myanmar, Bokeo is a part of golden triangle famous for its former drugs activities by the international powers as well as local followers fighting for their ideas, belief, economy and power expension. It is hilly in the north which slope down to the Mekong valley in the west and south.

Several groups of people live in the province. One of the popular business is gold panning and digging for precious stones along the rivers. Vegetables farming, cattles raising, trading goods with Thailand, Myanmar and China, as well as some tourism activities are among popular economies for the locals.

Houixai is the provincial capital town. On the opposite of the Mekong river is Thailand’s Chiang Khong. The town is where people can cross the river to and from Thailand. It is also a landing-point for merchant boats and passenger boats. From here ones can find boat down the river to Luang Prabang via an overnight stop at Pak Beng. It is also possible to go upstreams along Nam Tha river (which meets the Mekong at Paktha village – an hour boat from Houixai) to Luang Namtha, though there are no regular boats.

Oudomxai

The ruggedly hilly province is sandwished between Phongsali on the north, Luang Prabang on the east, Luang Namtha and Bokeo on the west, and Xayabouri on the south. It also has a short border with China’s Yunnan province in the north. As in the other mountainous provinces there are many groups of people living there namely Hmong, Akha, Thai dam Thai khao, Thai Neua, Khamu, Lao Huay, and many others.

Muang Xai, the capital of the province in the northern section, is the junction of the highways connecting the Lao northern provinces: Phongsali, Luang Namtha, Bokeo and Luang Prabang. Better roads are on the northern part of the province, while in the southern part people depend more on the river travel. The lower part of Nam Tha river is in Oudomxai province, where travellers can take boat from Paktha village (where Nam Tha drains into Mekong river) upstream to Luang Namtha taking two days and a night in a village house normally prepared by the boat-man.

Pak Beng on the Mekong river is a famous stop-over place for tourists traveling in slow boats between Luang Prabang and Houixai (border with Thailand’s Chiang Khong over the river). It also offers eco- tours to the nearby tribal villages. There are several accommodations available there. The road from Pak Beng to Muang Xai is good in the dry season, and can be passable by tough vehicles in the wet months.

Luang Prabang

The provincial capital Luang Prabang is the former royal capital and religious center of Laos. It is situated 344 km north of Vientiane via highway 13, it is surrounded by scenic hills the homes of many tribes. The far north of the province is bordering with Vietnam.

In 1995, the city was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Today, Luang Prabang is one of the most visited destinations in the country. Wat Xiengthong built in the 16th century, Mt. Phousi temple, the old town with buildings and houses in traditional architecture at the confluence of the Mekong and Khan rivers, former royal King’s palace are highlights of the town. 24 km upstream along the Mekong there is Pak Ou cave housing thousands of Buddha images inside; and the famous Khoung Si waterfall is located 27 km south of the town.

The old town can be explored on foot or by cycling. Early risers can witness the scene of hundreds of monks lining the streets to receive the offerings from the local people. Lao new year festival in the middle of April is a most celebrated ones in Luang Prabang.

Outside of the town there are many opportunities for the eco-tourists to explore the countryside in the mountains. Local guides and operators can arrange trekking and village home stay trips lasting from a day return to several days. The river travel on the Mekong, Saung Ou river which originates in Phongsali province, can be done using appropriate river vehicles. Saung Ou in the upper north is consists of many rapids.

Luang Prabang is connected to other provincial capitals by highways and domestic flights. International flights from Chiang Mai of Thailand, etc. are available. Please check with the airlines. Accommodations of many types and prices are available.

Hua Phan

The north-eastern province is bordering with Vietnam to the north and east, Luang Prabang to the west, and Xieng Khouang to the south. The mountainous region is home to many ethnic groups such as Hmong, Phu Noi, Khamu, Yunanese, Thai Nuea, Vietnamese, etc.

Nam Xam NBCA is located at the north-eastern corner of the province bordering Vietnam. The topography is limestone mountains, caves, headwaters of many rivers. Good amount of healthy forest and wildlife still exist in the province.

It is also the starting place of Lao Pathet (revolution) movement. Some of the caves used in the revolution, located near Vieng Xai town, are open to public. The hot springs in the north of Sam Neua town are among tourist spots. The textiles made by the tribal groups are famous for their design and materials.

The roads are mostly unpaved dirt tracks, thus good for dry season and very difficult in the wet months. Most of the few number of foreign tourists the province receives come by flight. Vietnamese visitors and traders come in the motor vehicles since the road to the border is in better shape.

Xayabouri

The province lies almost entirely on the western side of the Mekong river. It borders Thailand to the west, Vientiane and Luang Prabang provinces to the east (over the Mekong river), and Oudomxai to the north, also across the Mekong.

The border areas with Thailand is of high mountains, the highest being 2155 meters above the sea level. The province is rich in timber especially teak and lignite. Elephants are used extensively in the timber extraction. The low land plain areas close to the Mekong are rice bowls of the country.

Many ethnic tribe groups live in the province, many of which have family ties with those on the Thai side. The main economies are timber and its related businesses, and agriculture. Since local Lao people still lack international communication experience, outside brokers regularly come and act as coordinators cum promotors.

The road infracture is in its infancy. The only reasonably good road is from north to south; Luang Prabang to Kaen Thao village across the Mekong from Thailand’s Loei province with the provincial capital Xayabouri in the middle. In the north the road connecting to Pak Beng is being developed. From Vientiane ones can go up the Mekong to Pak Lai, the town in the southern province, from where visit to several waterfalls are possible.

Hong Sa is a new tourist destination in the northern province. Eco tourists can enjoy the nature life, the hilltribe village life, and kinds of relaxation. The small town is reached from Pak Beng (on the Mekong river). Elephant ride and trekking are popular.

A border bridge over Heung river links Ban Na Kraseng village of Tha Li district in Loei province to Kaen Thao district of Lao Xayabouri (Thai people call it “Chaiyabouri”) province.

Xieng Khouang

The land of high rugged mountains, valleys, water sources of many river streams make it one of the most beautiful landscape in the country. However the province was heavily bombed during the 1964-1973 war. Virtually all towns were bombed. Thousands of craters left by the explosion are being used as fish ponds. The former capital Xieng Khouang was entirely destroyed by bombs, and the new principal town was formed at Phonsavan.

The groups of people living in the province include Thai Dam, Hmong, Lao Lum and Phuan, and Vietnamese. The mysterious plain of Jars (Thong Hai Hin) is near Phongsavan. Hot springs and caves can be visited by road from the capital.

Vientiane province

Vientiane province sits to the north of Vientiane prefecture with its principal town at Phonhong. The southern and western parts close to the Mekong river are rice growing areas.

Tourist attractions are located at Nam Ngum dam lake and at Vang Vieng. The huge, beautiful, artificial Nam Ngum lake was created by damming the Nam Ngum river and flooding around 250 square km of forest land. The dam is located about 80 km to the north of Vientiane. The hydroelectric plant generates most of the power used in Vientiane valley, Luang Prabang town and export the rest to Thailand.

Vang Vieng, located roughly 160 km north of Vientiane on the highway 13, consists of limestone cliffs, caves, rapids good for white water rafting and kayaking on the Nam Song river, and tribal villages.

The highway 13 within the province is good for the year round driving. The road goes to Luang Prabang, and continues further north.

Saysomboune

This new province of Laos was a special zone barred to tourists in the past. Now tourists are allowed to travel, though many places still require use of registered Lao travel agents.

It is bordering Vientiane province and close to the Nam Ngum dam lake and its river in the north-east of Vientiane province. The province is full of forested hills and is sparsely populated. Lao highest mountain “Mt. Bia” or “Phu Bia” (over 2800 meters) is located in the province.

It is an inviting place for the nature lovers, trekkers and rafters. The Nam Ngum river offers many high level white waters during the rainy season between June and December. However The trekking and village home stay program must be arranged by a Lao based tour operator. It needs time and preparation of travel document.

Borikhamsay

The province is mountainous with lower hills sloping down to the Mekong river in the south. The capital Pakxan is located on the bank of Mekong river at the place where Nam San river flows into the Mekong.

In the past Pakxan served as a transit place for the road travellers, between the provinces in the north and south. The road no. 13 connecting Vientiane and Pakxan and to the south has been improved. Tourists are welcome to stay overnight and tour around in the province.

It has borders with Thailand over the Mekong river, and with Vietnam in the north-east. Border check point with Vietnam at Nam Pao (highway no. 8; drive from Lak Sao) is open to international travellers. The boat crossing to and from Thailand is open only to the local Lao and Thai people.

Khammouane

Combination of mountains (up to 2000 meters at Vietmamese border) and low hills in the east and central; and valley in the south-west where it is divided from Thailand by the Mekong river.

Phu Hin Bun National Biodiversity Conservation Arra (NBCA) occupies more than 1500 square km in the central province, between the highways 13 and 8A. Even though many of the area’s wildlife have been killed by hunting and various developement the area is believed to contain some sizable population of endangered animals.

On the eastern side the Nakai-Nam Theun NBCA consists of huge 3700 square km of forested hills and river streams with lot of plant life and wildlife. On the eastern side it borders with Vietnam.

The province contains many limestone mountains, cave systems, and rivers flowing down the mountain slops and through the caves. Tham (cave) Khon Lore at the upper part of Nam Hin Bun river offers a 7 km long waterway navigable by small boat.

The provincial capital Thakhek is on the Mekong river bank. Some buildings from the French colonial era can still be seen. From Thakhek travellers can cross the Mekong river by ferry boat to and from Thailand’s Nakhon Phanom. People can also cross border to and from Vietnam at Na Phao checkpoint on the highway no. 12.

Savannakhet

Savannakhet is the most populous province in Laos. It is a very active place for communication and commerce between Thailand and Vietnam. The road no. 9 lays east-west from the provincial capital to the Vietnamese border town of Lao Bao. The border is open for both locals, and foreign tourists with visa.

Most parts of the province is low land with some agriculture plots in the north and east of Savannakhet city. Goods flow across three countries on the only available highway no. 9. People and cars can cross the Mekong river between Savannakhet and Thailand’s town of Mukdahan.

Most people living in the province are Lao Lum, Thai Dam, Phu Thai, some of the Mon-Khmer groups. The villages in the province are the attractions to the outside people.

Phu Xang Hae NBCA covers a hilly region in the middle of the province, where there are evergreen forest and some wildlife still surviving. Perhaps one of the most popular tourist attractions is the Ho Chi Minh trail used by the north Vietnamese during the last Indochina war to transport men and goods to the south Vietnam.

Saravan

Central low land plain is surrounded by the hill ranges. The forest on the eastern side of the Mekong river is in the NBCA. On the Thai (western) side is Pha Tham national park of Ubon Ratchathani province. The famous tourist place for eco-tourism is the Bolaven plateau area which actually covers Saravan, Sekong, Champasak and Attapeu provinces. The weather is cool and nice all the year round. There are hilltribe villages in the mountains.

The population includes Tahoy, Lavai, Katang, Alak, Laven, Ngai, Tong, Pako, Kanay, Katu and Kado, etc. Many villages grow coffee, tea and vegetable.

The north-western side of the province at the Vietnamese border had been bombed during the last Indochina war.

Sekong

The least populous province of Laos is moderately mountainous and it is difficult to travel due to the lack of all-weather roads. Many diferent ethnic tribe people live in the low lands and in the hills of the province. The economy of the province is one of the worse in the country.

Xe Sap NBCA is located in the far north-east of the province at the Vietnamese border. The travel is almost impossible in the rainy season. Accommodations, medication, telephones, etc. are very rare in the eastern hilly parts. Major mode of transport is in a truck.

The province was heavily bombed during the last Indochina war. Remains of the bombs are still found along the former Ho Chi Minh trail.

Champasak

The province is a combination of fertile plains where people grow coffee, tea, vegetable and rice; and the hills where eco-tourism is popular. In the south of the province the Mekong river drops and creates a large waterfall. There are many islands in the river in this place. “Si Phan Don” as the area is known is also where people can spot fresh water dolphins.

Many ethnic tribes live in the province. Main economy is farming. Some of them have been working in the timber business, as well as tourism. The Bolaven plateau region in the east is famous for its eco-tourism operations. Trekking, elephant ride, waterfall visit are popular, and accommodations are available. The Khmer style temple of Wat Phu on the western bank of the Mekong river, south of Pakse is a famous spot.

Pakse, the capital, is located on the eastern bank of the Mekong river. Border crossing at Vaeng Tao to and from Thailand’s Chong Mek (Ubon Ratchathani province) overland is open for both local and international tourists. The bridge over the Mekong to Pakse makes the travel easier. The border crossing with Cambodia close to the Mekong river is also possible. However the procedure is often up to the immigration officers at the check point.

Attapeu

The mountainous province is bordering Cambodia to the south and Vietnam to the east. Due to the difficult travel situations it is believed that many of the wildlife could still survive in the forested rugged hills.

The population is thin and most people are of Lave Nge and Talieng ethnic groups. They do farming; growing coffee, tea and vegetable along with some mountain rice. The hill people share close tradition with the tribes in the Ratanakiri province in Cambodia. The capital Attapeu is in the valley surrounded by the mountains.

Ho Chi Minh trail passes Sekong and Attapeu provinces and thus were bombed heavily by the USA during the last Indochina war. This also made the population even thinner. For the hardy tourists who like to go out of the beaten tracks, the province offers specticular waterfalls, limestone cliffs, birds. However always travel together with local people who know the areas well.

Information provided by www.khamla.com

Very cold climate.

Thank you to http://arrakeen.ch for the picture.

The city seems beautiful & peaceful.

Lovely Days.

French:

LA PLAYA

Paroles: Pierre Barouh

Musique: Jo Van Wetter, 1964

Quand sur la plage tous les plaisirs de l’été
Avec leurs joies venaient à moi de tous côtés
L’amour offrait l’éternité
A cette image de la plage ensoleillée

C’est bien dommage mais les amours de l’été
Bien trop souvent craignent les vents en liberté
Mon coeur cherchant sa vérité
Vient faire naufrage sur la plage désertée.

Le sable et l’océan
Tout est en place
De tous nos jeux pourtant
Je perds la trace
Un peu comme le temps
La vague efface
L’empreinte des beaux jours
De notre amour.

English:

THE BEACH

Lyric : Pierre Barrouh

Music: Jo Van Wetter, 1964

When on the beach all the pleasures of the summer

With their joys came to me on all sides the love offered eternity

A this image of the sunny beach

It is a pity well but the loves of the

Bien summer too often fear the winds in freedom

My heart seeking its

Vient truth to make shipwreck on the deserted beach.

Sand and the ocean

All are in place

Of all our plays however

I lose the trace

A little as time the wave erases the print of the beautiful days

Of our love.

EL RELOJ

                                                                 Music by Roberto Cantoral

Reloj no marques las horas

porque voy a enloquecer

ella se ira para siempre

cuando amanezca otra vez

Nomas nos queda esta noche

para vivir nuestro amor

y tu tic-tac me recuerda

mi irremediable dolor

Reloj deten tu camino

porque mi vida se apaga

ella es la estrella

que alumbra mi ser

yo sin su amor no soy nada

Deten el tiempo en tus manos

haz esta noche perpetua

para que nunca se vaya de mi

para que nunca amanezca